César Ramirez spent over a decade holding three Michelin stars in the back of a Brooklyn grocery store. He lost all of it in 2023. Then he opened a restaurant with his own name on the door and had two stars back within five months.

Some dinners you chase for the food. This one I chased for the idea of it. A full review of the nine-course tasting at Per Se, from the salmon cornet to the seven desserts, and an honest look at what didn't land.